What's in Productive Spindling?

By Amelia

I've been walking on air lately with the release of my third (yep, third!) book, Productive Spindling.

The question that comes up most is, what is in the book. My Productive Spindling class is a hands-on version of the book, and the blurb tells a good story, but you may find the Table of Contents satisfies your curiousity even more (click for bigger):

Productive Spindling is available from these fine retailers:

• The Bellwether - that would be me - in Washington
  
• Journey Wheel, home of Bosworth Spindles in Massachusetts
  
• The Wheel Thing, a terrific spindle emporium, in Connecticut
  
• Custom Handweaving -- look for Nancy at California area shows!
  
• Spinning Loft with the amazing wall of fleece and spinners' sleepovers, in Michigan
  
• SpinSpiration in Sweden! woot!
  

The retailers cover many shows I'm not able to reach, so if you want the book in your hands before you put down your $18 (or if you want to skip the shipping costs!), be sure to look for one of us at a show in your area.

~~
What were the first two books, you ask? First, a little one called "British Tea Cosies" -- which quickly went out of print when Fiber Trends purchased two of the patterns outright, Nanny Meier's Tea Cosy and Braided Cable Tea Cosy. They remain favorites in their line to this day :)

And second, the ever popular Spindling: The Basics, which has been 80% folded into Productive Spindling -- the not-directly-spinning topics were left out, as they are available in similar form on my blog, and I wanted to keep Productive Spindling focused. Spindling: The Basics will remain available until it too is out of print, and is still used in my basic Learn To Spin kits.

And, if you like back stories and have a Ravelry account, you can see some of the development of Productive Spindling on this thread in Follow The Bellwether, and with my initial announcement of its availability here.
~~
posted 14 July 2009 at http://askthebellwether.blogspot.com/

Can you spin a sheep?

By Amelia


I get asked this a lot, actually. And, perhaps you are curious.

As you can see from the photo, some of the spindles I carry are sheep shapes. Made by Mr. Forrester, they are gorgeous cuts of wood.

And, yes, they spin. See, I even spun singles and plied on this sheep -- it does it all!

Why don't they wobble? Well, at first, I was getting all complicated in my head about balance and cut and how Mr. Forrester must have really studied the shape. And then, like Archimedes in the tub, I thought, "Eureka!" it's not that complicated after all.

It's the center of mass that matters. If Mr. Forrester locates that in his sheep and puts the shaft there, then the sheep will spin without wobble.

That's why we can spin with a simple rock on a string -- it will rotate and center the string so it can spin with the string coming away from the side of the rock in a way that places the rock's center of mass below the string. Simple.

We can have spindles of pretty much any shape. And, do you know what happens when you twirl them? They all blur into circles. I guess that's why we think only circles can spin -- visually, all our shapes become circles when they are in motion.

It is only fitting that it is the eve of the availability of my new book, Productive Spindling, arriving July 15th, and I've figured out a new nugget not in the book (this nugget, that is). If you are ordering my new book, consider adding a Forrester Geometric spindle or Sheep spindle to support The Bellwether and expand your own spindle collection.

Thank you!
~~
posted 9 July 2009 at http://askthebellwether.blogspot.com/

What's Important to You in a Spinning Wheel?

By Amelia

I was recently asked by a new-to-me Michael what was important to me in a spinning wheel. It set me to thinking a fair bit about that, and developing a "short list":

What would I want in a wheel?

• quiet ... this is really important for me, as I spin in the evenings while hubby watches a show or we talk. Even my electric wheel is the quietest available (the Butterfly). Majacraft, SpinOlution, and the Pocket Wheel are all nice, quiet wheels. This takes a fair bit of engineering and tight fit of things like bobbins, treadles, and the like.
  
• ratios ... I'm a fast spinner, so most of my spinning is as high as I can crank up my wheel; I love 30+-to-1 ratios. That said, if it's fat singles, I want about 10:1. And if I'm teaching someone on my wheel, even lower is good!
  
• smooth/easy treadling ... obvious, right? the foot action needs to be continuous and balanced if it's a double treadle, not a syncopated rhythm. I put my Majacraft together wrong at first and was quite disappointed; luckily I soon learned it was my mistake, corrected it, and now have smooth treadling. The SpinOlution wheels have the easiest treadling I've ever found, due in part to their completely novel approach to the topic.
  
• stands up to continuous use ... I spin alot. Breaking brake bands or drive bands are a real bummer.
  
• generous bobbin capacity; option for plying bobbin a plus ... we love big bobbins! Though when I spin laceweight, the small size bobbin can be a plus, because you really don't want to fight 4 ounces of laceweight singles all at one time (okay, maybe you do -- I don't!)
  
• easy to change out bobbins ... I admit, this was the one weak spot of my Schacht Matchless (the cadillac of wheels). I love the treadle-on/treadle-off ease of the Majacraft and the simple pinch-and-pull of the SpinOlution wheels.
  
• 14 pounds-ish ... that's an easy-to-haul weight for me. Journey Wheel, Majacraft's Pro, The Bee Travel Wheel, the Lendrum all fall in that bracket. The Pocket Wheel exceeds it, at a mere 6-7 pounds!
  
• won't lose the drive band during a car ride on gravel roads ... nothing so annoying as having to get one back on, bleh. Sure, a minor annoyance, but if I can avoid it, I do.
  
• easy to replace drive band (both material and to put on the wheel) ... can you tell I have a thing about drive bands? You see, I broke my Majacraft drive band and found out I had to partially disassemble the wheel to put a new one one. So I bought 2 and put them both on, the spare at the ready! The Pocket and the Hitchhiker win this, with no drive band at all! The SpinOlution wheels are replaceable without taking the wheel apart, which is nice.
  
• appealing to the eye ... I love the sleek look of the Majacraft, but have to admit the Jensen Tina II turned my head (and made me scribble in my checkbook!). There's something to be said for fairytale spoked wheels. That said, the Danish-modern of the Louet and the SpinOlution wheels have their own appeal, especially in a modern IKEA-furnished home. And the Hitchhiker has a whimsy all its own. The variety of wheels out there clearly shows the wide taste we spinners have for our wheels.
  

Part of what I look for in a wheel is related to how I spin. I mostly spin DK weight or finer 2-plies; occasionally I spin thick low-twist singles or art yarn.

And, I do sell the Bee and the Mach II from SpinOlution; be sure to stop by my booth at Black Sheep Gathering this weekend to give them each a spin! It's a great opportunity to compare them to all the wheels out there, as Carolina Homespun, Woodland Woolworks, and other vendors bring a wide variety of wheels for road testing too: Lendrum, Ashford, Kromski, Schacht, Louet, Fricke, and more.

So, what would you want in a wheel? Leave your input on the comments here, and I'll make sure to pass them on to Michael. After all, I told him, each spinner has their own opinion!

~~
Be sure to see Spin-Off's Spinning Wheel Round-Up for a list of features of a wide variety of wheels!

For details on several wheels I've reviewed on this blog, see the Wheels post list.

posted 15 June 2009 at http://askthebellwether.blogspot.com/

Worth the Price of Admission

By Amelia

The absolute highlight of my round of NwRSA classes was when a participant said "that was worth the price of admission" on one of the spindling techniques about halfway through Productive Spindling. She was thrilled! So was I! It really brightened all my classes for the weekend.

Next up was a very color-filled weekend at the CSMSA 2009 convention (that's Circular Sock Machine Society of America). I had a round of dye classes planned, and we all had much colorful fun, as you can see in my flickr set CSMSA 2009.

However, the days were even more colorful than planned ... the delightful Helga shared her ball dyeing with us!

You guessed it -- that was my "worth the price of admission" moment.

Helga has outlined the steps for this on her blog, ansichtsachen. Oh yeah -- Helga's German :-) the blog starts in German, the second half of each entry is in English.

Here you see my ball, after all the dye was in and it was set. We set our dyes using my dye microwave. I was worried about my usual 2 on/2 off/2 on/2 off/2 on not being quite enough for this tightly wound ball, so I added an extra 2 off/2 on at the end -- everyones' ball rinsed cleanly, so it worked!

Here's my yarn, skeined. You can see it's fairly white -- all of that was on the inside. Actually, there isn't much white. My second ball (who could resist? not me) was much richer color inside to out, and some of Helga's students got thorough coverage the first time out. The trick is, not to be afraid of the dye. Go for it, and have fun!



~~
posted 13 June 2009 at http://askthebellwether.blogspot.com/

What do you teach in Spinning Sock Yarn?

By Amelia

Sock yarn is about fineness. Fineness, and durability. Fineness, durability, and ... oh wait, I'm channeling a Monty Python skit, it has nothing to do with sock yarn.

Spinning is about having fun! And that's what we do in this workshop as we explore the ins-and-outs of spinning sock yarn.

Let's take a look at that fineness thing. And durability, how do we get that?

We'll play with:
* techniques for spinning fine(r)
* how fine singles are for different plies
* what fibers add durability
* what spinning methods add durability
* how to add durability in plying
* what finishing methods add durability

And to keep it fascinating, let's explore our color options:
* turning barberpoles into beads with cables
* marled 2-color yarns and faux cables
* Navajo-ply: test before you commit...
* self-striping socks
* fractal plying and more striping options

We'll wrap up with a discussion on knitting socks, from dress socks to boot socks, and any sock-knitting-ness you'd like to discuss: DPs or circs? What is a sock machine?

Bring your favorite sock pattern or favorite commercial sock yarn to explore in class.

~~
For a list of all workshops taught by the Belle (that's me!) see, What Workshops do you Teach? Hey -- it would be fun to have a sock blend batt carding class followed by this one. I'm happy to tailor workshops to your group, just let me know.

For posts on spinning sock yarns, see the SockSpinning topic.

Did that mention of sock machines tickle your ear? See the list of SockMachine posts.

Interested in Sock Yarn Dyeing? See the classes and posts on that, too.

(Oh, and ... as I was asked, the blog is quiet as I wrap up "the book" and the heat of show season ... not less than 10 classes to teach in the next two weeks, starting with this one, tomorrow: all fun, all the time!)
~~
posted 1 June 2009 at http://askthebellwether.blogspot.com/

Where can I find a used loom?

By Amelia

Now that I'm taking a splash in the weaving pool, folks ask me if I know of a second-hand table loom they could start with, or if I know someone interested in a floor loom. That's how I know my feet are wet (grin).

This is gonna sound a lot like my recent post Where can I find a used spinning wheel? Because, honestly, weavers tend to hang out around spinners and vice-versa. Especially on-line.

First things first ... I am not endorsing any particular seller or venue by listing these, just providing the information. Buyer beware, that is the best policy. Also, buying solely based on a photograph is taking a risk. Get out there and see it yourself, or if it's not by you, find a relative, friend, or associate who can see it in person before it's shipped to you.

If you don't weave yet, take an experienced weaver with you to check out the loom, too. Even if the seller can weave, this gives you a less biased opinion.

I know second-hand can be quite a bit less expensive than new, but consider also any manufacturer's or store's warranties may be a safety net you'd like to have. That's why it's cool that AVL USA provides warranties on their refurbished looms, too. Given those looms have electronics in them, that's very important to consider.

When purchasing a used loom, find out its brand/maker, age, harness, type (jack, countermarche, counterbalance, rigid heddle), how many heddles it has, how many and what dent reeds it has, what other accessories come with it, and if it has any manuals. Some old looms have manuals available from The Weaver's Friend. If the brand/maker isn't known, perhaps you can poll some friends on-line or in your local guild to look at pictures of it to see if they know.

I have not used all of these placed myself to sell or buy used equipment; I've visited them all, sold on some, bought on some. Most of my used sales have actually been in person, at shows, in my vendor booth. So that's another place to check for used equipment -- wool show vendors often have an item on the edge of a table that is second hand equipment for sale; and some conferences, like NwRSA's, have used equipment tables. Check with your local guild, someone may be considering selling a loom; and perhaps your local yarn shop has a bulletin board for used equipment sales.

Here is a list of handy links for used weaving equipment:

FiberArts.org's Classified ad page
Fiber Equipment and Barter's Looms for sale/wanted
Association of Northwest Weaver's Guilds Classified Ads
Vermont Weaver's Guild Looms and Equipment For Sale
Weaver's Guild of Boston Classifieds
Homestead Weaving Studio's For Sale/Wanted lists
Spinner's & Weaver's Housecleaning Pages - Loom
Apple Hollow Farm's Used Equipment Page
The Online Spinning & Weaving Guild Discussion pages
Ravelry's Weaver's Marketplace
Ravelry's Used Tools & Equipment Marketplace
AVL Looms' Factory Reconditioned Looms
Woodland Woolwork's Used Equipment Page
Portland Fiber Gallery's Used Equipment Page
Hawthorne Works' Refurbished Looms
Black Cat Weavery Weavers' Marketplace (central US)
Warped Weavers' Studio Estate and Equipment Sales

Check out your local Craig's List or use http://www.craigshelper.com/ to search all of the ones within 250 miles of you (handy, that!)

There's ebay too, though then you have bidding to deal with and commercial suppliers selling new equipment as well. Large looms listed on eBay usually require pick-up, so use the advanced search box there to find looms near you.

And, drum roll please, my big tip ... some of these pages have RSS feeds, but not all of them. Set yourself up with an account on ChangeDetection.com so you can monitor the non-RSS pages for updates.

Of course, this works the other way around too -- are you selling a used loom? these are options for listing it. Pick one local to you, or with the kind of exposure you want.

One thing to consider on selling the larger looms: when you list an item of considerable value, you may get emails from scammers. Be aware that if they ask you for your website, or a description of "the item", or your email, it's likely they are not for real. Talk to your buyer on the phone, if you can. Google them on-line, see if they are a weaver too. And, do not send money to "the freight company they choose" ... it's likely their own check will bounce, and you'll be out the freight money as well, because believe me, that check of yours will be cashed. Just be aware, and careful. I know it sounds scary, but it just takes a little watchfulness.

These websites can also be handy for researching the value of a loom, for buyers and sellers alike. Consider age, condition, and accessories. I've been told that when selling, offering a price point 30% less than new for a like-new-condition loom will usually be successful. If your loom is old, consider discounting from the price you paid for it or its price when it was new. Some looms gain in value due to their no longer being made, having a high-quality well-respected maker, and availability; others maintain value, and others, well, you know.

You might also check with the vendors that offer second-hand equipment; it's very likely they got them as trade-ins, so that's another avenue to pursue for selling your used equipment.

I am too new at weaving to have good suggestions for prices of looms. You can find bargains on Craig's List, and even "hen's teeth" -- I know I did, and paid the lady's local UPS store to pack and ship it to me, from Maine: a Baby Dobby for my Baby Wolf (woot!) ... but you know, I still haven't installed that sucker. It's on the floor in front of the loom, beckoning me ...

Anyway. For second-hand pricing, research the price of new; if you aren't in a hurry, research the price of a second-hand loom in places not near you, and then keep an eye open for something similar near you. You never know when you might find a treasure in your own neighborhood -- my first loom was purchased for $20 from a coffeeshop friend as I was chatting about wanting to learn to weave. It needed restoration, so it cost me a fair bit more than that to get to a working loom -- but wow, that was serendipitous, and still less expensive than new.

~~~
Related posts:
Where can I find a used spinning wheel?
Where can I find a sock machine?
The internet for the uninitiated fiber artist
... and more posts on weaving listed here.

Oh, and the looms in the photos? past looms of mine, all now enjoying new homes. Some were part of my loom lust fund, which has now been applied in payment toward my to-be-here-this-summer 24" 24H AVL WDL loom (yowza!) too new to be found second-hand, it's coming brand-spanking new to me.

Do you have a site you recommend for used weaving items? Let us know in the comments ~ thanks.
~~
posted 9 May 2009 at http://askthebellwether.blogspot.com/

Should I have the flyer on the left or the right?

By Amelia

Dave asked me about Saxony-style wheels -- should the flyer be on the left side or the right side?

The upright castle wheels with the flyer in the middle cut the cake in the middle, as it were. And electric wheels remove the question entirely as there are no pedals to treadle.

All the Ashford Traditionals I've seen put the flyer on the left of the drive wheel. And, quite honestly, I never gave it much thought -- so when I got my Majacraft, I put the flyer on the left side, as shown here.

Then, after reading a Spin-of article about Watson Wheels, I decided a Martha Watson Wheel might just give my Majacraft a run for its money. I was in luck, as Mr. Watson Sr. lives a short distance north of me across the border, my girlfriend likes taking car rides over there (via ferry), and Mr. Waton had a Martha being picked up within a week -- so if I came right away, I could test drive one! Oh yeah! We went!

The Martha he had completed was lovely, in Walnut, with regular and jumbo flyers. It had the flyer on the left, just as I would have expected. So, I sat down to spin on it. My friend sat down to spin at the Marie, also a left-mounted-flyer, his Production Saxony wheel (wow! gorgeous!)

As we spun, Mr. Watson was quite a delight. He recognized quickly we knew what we were doing ... and then he said, "for you (meaning me), we should put the flyer on the other side".

What? Being the curious sort, I said, "Why?"

He responded, "see how you are twisting at the waist when you draft? with the flyer on the other side, you wouldn't. See how Kym isn't twisting, and she's drafting the other way? That's why the left-hand flyer works for her." (Or words to that effect -- I had neither camera nor voice recorder with me that day.)

Wow! A revelation! Perfect! Now, the funny thing is, I knew why I draft with my right hand in front, left behind -- two reasons: I started my spinning life with spindles, and the people and books I learned from did it that way; and very early in my spinning explorations, I pursued and learned traditional long draw -- with the fiber as traditionally held, in the left hand.

I just hadn't realized it impacted my wheel spinning that much. In fact, reflecting on the ride home, I realized I should have purchased the left-hand Drudik wheel (oh man are those lovely wheels) at conference those many years ago. Now they are $$$$ and Magnus Drudik is retired. Sigh.

But that's all right. I can purchase my Watson Martha with the flyer on the right (it'll be ready in June ... I bounce in my seat as I type that!)

And, when I got home, I switched my Majacraft to put the flyer on the right. You know, it is more comfortable. My hands are in front of me as I spin, and I'm not all twisted up in my seat. Thank you, Mr. Watson!

So Dave, and all you others considering a wheel -- how do you spin? If your left hand is in front drafting/right hand behind holding the fiber supply, then the traditional left hand flyer will work great for you. If your right hand is in front drafting/left hand is behind holding the fiber supply, then the less common right hand flyer is your more ergonomic wheel.

~~
posted 8 May 2009 at http://askthebellwether.blogspot.com/